Sunday, June 24, 2007

Mystery lake-Roopkund

As far as trips are concerned, i seem to be doing good this year as this was my fourth trip.
Roopkund has been on my to-do list for quite some time now as firstly its a proper trip involving couple of days of hard trekking and secondly there's a mystery angle to it.I guess the latter reason was more intriguing.

This time it was the Birlasoft gang.



We guys started on 15 June from office . Journey was full of problems. Our qualis filter got clogged as a result the latter half of journey was full of jerky rides. With much faith in god we managed to pull till rishikesh where we got the filter replaced. Stayed at a ashram that day. Woke up next day with sore backs . Braced ourselves for the next leg of journey till Lohajang .
Started early morning on 16 June.

Enroute we passed through Devprayag where the two rivers Alaknanda and Bhagirathi converge to form the almighty Ganga. Bhagirathi emerges from the mouth of gangotri glacier(gaumukh,ahead of Gangotri) while alaknanda rises from glacial snouts of Bhagirath and Satopanth glaciers ahead of Badrinath.

Notice the difference in colors of both rivers.



We got stuck in one of the worst traffic nightmares , this one lasted 2-3 hours. Took some random shots to kill the time.
Dont worry this guy's head was not decapitated, just the way he was lying down to kill time like us :)



Finally the traffic crawled and we moved out of that mess as we had to proceed towards east. God knows what happned to the people who were moving north towards badrinath. The night journey was again interesting as i managed to stir up my favorite topic of ghosts and i swear by god it was actually spooky. In between we guys wanted to take a leak but i guess the topic made us realise that the cab was a safer option at least for some time(b4 u start thinking no we did'nt pee inside :)

Later that evening we reached Lohajang. The next day i.e 17 June we headed for Wan. There had been offseason rains as a result the entire area was lush green. Otherwise in general also i noticed there were thick lush green forests- all thanks to the regular supply of rainfall that uttranchal receives.

Between Lohajang and wan there was a nice waterfall where we all posed






On reaching Wan we organized our stuff and loaded everything on three mules.Third mule not in the pic, probably munching somewhere



Finally we were ready to leave , of course not before another group pic
We started at 9:00 AM from Wan.
Weather was sunny. GPS showed 7559 feet and pressure reading was 766 mBars



While climbing we met a lot of humans , animals etc
Every liked being clicked and were generally photogenic




Now it was doggy's time to get clicked.
Guess saurabh was initially apprehensive of Mr doggy but it did'nt take very long .



after all dog is a mans best friend...



our turn to prove the fact :)



Throughout the trek we bumped into cute pahari kids who would greet us by saying namastey. Wish i had carried some candies :( Next time you guys head for the hills dont forget to carry some. They love it!



During the First day, the first half of the trek takes you through village till you reach a top where there is a small clearing, some sort of a meadow. We took a short rest along with our mules who kept munching.

After a short while we continued further. The trail continued straight till a point came from where we had to descend down to a stream.




From there the tough climb started. Our next pit stop was gharoli patal. In between it started raining heavily for which we were prepared. We quickly covered the mules with plastic sheets and wore barsatees( polythene raincoats). They are easily available all over uttaranchal and our pretty cheap just 5 bucks.

Some snapshots of us and animals while it was raining



Finally after almost 6.5 hours we reached the beautiful meadows of bedni. The clouds had cleared by then and the view was breathtaking.

We quickly set up our tents ,had an early dinner and hit the sack early since next day again was a tough climb.

From bedni the peaks of chaukhamba and kamet were visible. I'm not to sure about kamet as i used the same orientation on google earth to check up. Do correct me if i am wrong.




Height of bedni was 11672 feet and the pressure reading was 668 mbars



I saw a lot of these rodents on the meadows. I guess they thrive on juicy grasses
They resembled a mouse but was definitely something different maybe a lemming or chinchilla



During evening i took a shot of distant mountains. I did some fooling around in photoshop for this image



We started at 8:00 AM,18 june for our next destination i.e Baghubasa which is the base camp for roopkund lake.

had never seen so much greenery around in my life



We did a lot of posing around ...








The entire route was full of small flowers like these



Reached Pathar nachoni at 10:30 after a walk of 2.5 hours.
As per folklore here some dancers were turned into stones.

Altitude here was 12884 feet and pressure reading was 633mBars




Many trekkers instead of reaching Baghubasa camp at pathar nachnoi which is a good idea for starters since acclimatisation is required. Of course some people are seasoned climbers ;)



The meadows at pathar nachnoi were full of horses



After a short rest we started the tough climb for kalu vinayak which is a mountain pass. It took about 2 hours and 5 minutes to reach the top.

There was a small temple dedicated to Lord Ganesh at kalu vinayak.
The altitude here was 14,283 feet and pressure reading was 600mBars

From here on i had a recurring headache- symptoms of altitude sickness .




This is the trail we had to negotiate to reach kalu vinayak



Bagubhasa is 20 minutes away from the mountain pass.
We reached there and quickly occupied the empty huts made up of stones.



The sun was setting for the day



Next day i.e 19 June we started our climb for roopkund.Throughout the journey i met many groups but none were able to make it to roopkund. All were like to much snow, even the guides advised us not to pursue further since any slip could be fatal as there were deep falls below.




All this did not bother us and we continued to climb. We saw another group from banglore who had made an early start, by then they were just an hour away from roopkund. This was definitely inspiring since till now we had not heard any good news

The climb had been a tough one and there were places where i had to walk on my all fours. I was thinking if its like this now what will happen when we would descend.

Anyways we had started at 6:15 and by 9:00 we hit roopkund.The lake was totally frozen, i scanned the slopes for any skeletal remains. I think i did see what i thought was a human skull. Open the pic full size to see

My GPS showed an altitude of 15,645 feet. pressure reading was 569Mbars
i wonder which source is reliable since i checked up on google earth, the margin of error was less but at wikipedia and other sites the altitude shown was much higher.




We did not spend much time at Roopkund since the previous group warned us that sun was melting snow and it would get difficult to get back. Those guy climbed till zorawar gali which is even higher than roopkund.

After about 10 minutes we started descending and i think by 11 we were at base camp.
By now my headache was bad and i felt little pukish.
For Lunch we had maggi and some ready to make stuff. I think from there on i'm never gonna eat either, the very thought gives me nausea.

At base camp we met a trekking family. They had done a lot of treks including kalindi khal.In fact their name is in Limca Book of records for being the only family with youngest kid to do that trek. Kalindi khal is 19000+ feet and their son was 14 years old then.

The same day we walked all the way back to bedni.
Normally people climb back to Baghubasa and do bedni the next day.
By now i had terrible pain in my left knee .

After reaching bedni i took lemon with salt for nausea and that did wonders for me. We had a hearty meal and slept early .

On 20 June we started our downward journey to the village of didana via ali bugyal.
I think Ali Bugyal was even prettier than bedni bugyal. You have to see these shots to believe



The landscape was quite different




Doesnt this resemble the amul ad?



horse as usual were grazing



This one looks like the WINXP wallpaper



everone kept wakking on



This was the last view of ali bugyal , from here on the steep descent through thick jungles started.



At one place in the forest we came across a fallen tree on our trail. The guide told us not to go below the tree but instead cross over it. He said if you do so and dont give any offering to the tree , the tree will take you. I did'nt know what he meant by that.We even saw offering on the tree like bangle,beads,necklace etc. That was kinda scary.

Though all this sounded superstitious we were very quick to follow his words

We reached didana from where we made a call to lohaganj to call our qualis at kuling which was another couple of hours walk from didana.

We had tea at this old lady's place, somehow my leg pain did disappeared for a short while.



In didana i clicked some shy youngsters



Finally we reached kuling where we settled the account with guide, mules etc
Since we had time we decided to push ourselves for a few hours drive as this would have decreased next days travel time.

We stayed at some place that night.
Next day we drove via almora,haldwani.
This was the last view that we saw of trishul



At about 10 at night we reached delhi.

36 comments:

Pallavi said...

hey arun!
this time seriously u hav done a superb job....commendble work...dunno where to begin ...the gripping description or the remarkable and astounding pics or ur wonderful trip on the whole.
The entire journey seemd so perfect- agr8 drive(nt including the filter thing tho),the perfect trek and omg wht breathtaking views.......n even ur pics n description was incredible...almost felt like being der! at one point cud actually feel the chill......gr8 work!!!

Madhu Taneja, Ameeta Atul & Ashima Taneja said...

whoa! Thats pure beauty captured by a skilled photographer....Good job! Every bit of the greenery reminds me of shillong....

Change ur name to Raju Guide!

--Siddharth

Unknown said...

Nice pictures you must have enjoyed a lot there..You can plan next trip to Panchchuli base camp,another beautiful and absolutely virgin trek.

Deepika said...

Dude... gr8 work as always... all the pics are awesome...!! this seems to be one of ur most interesting trips...(for a reader too)!!

Diabolic said...

nice man....i didnt know india was so beautiful....

krazee... said...

...the pics as always gr8. the best one of the Sardarji "on the rocks" ;-)

really envy the camera of urs and the places u get to visit...

Shilpa Kachroo said...

Shilpa Kachroo
Hi everybody...You guys are rocking...I really missed the chance to join this trip. I liked the photography very much...And the way arun has written the discription hats of!!!amazing man...Gr8 job done...

Unknown said...

Very Pretty!! Now, i know whom to consult for mountain trekking :-)

Gagan said...

One hell of a trip....MAN.!!!....nice pictures dude...and the way you have put the blog is awesome.!! Cheers

Unknown said...

Arun!!

what happens when a perfect travel writer goes for a trek in heavens??
U get a blog like this...Phenomenal work man!!!!

Some serious alternative career options for you....

Unknown said...

wow! perfect!
reminds me of my trip to bedni..did not go beyond that! wish i had, but looking at roopkund-i dont think i would have been able to!! good job arun..keep going!

SS said...

awesome.. both the pictures and the travelogue... i almost felt i was there!!!

loved the pictures, especially of the flower and green meadows..
of course the sardarji's pic commands a special mention. :-)

cheers!

shomps

Unknown said...

dude..wts up......
awsum pics man.....u really hav n eye 4 details...guess wt evn ma mom wnt ga ga ovr ur pics...she wntd 2 print n frame dem....lol....neways great wrk done as always....u cn make dat out by d list of appreciations u've gt..keep it up babe...tke cre...chao

Varun Shah said...

dude.. we need to decide upon one of this trips together.........

vikram said...

Good pics...It seems they are taken by a skilled photographer..best suited for an ad of a good camera brand.Your description was also very well written.
Liked your adventrous spirit.
Manoj(Vikram,birlasoft friend)

Kaustubh.....Trekking and Music ..........my life said...

Its the best pics as i evr seen. Green colour in pics r so good.
ch cam u hv used for the trek?

RK Negi said...

Superb man ..

Its woh...

Man after having a look at this blog I wounder what are you doing in It?

Anand said...

It's one thing to travel and an another thing to write blogs abt the trip. Arun, u r doing a fantastic job by writing blogs. It provides so much info yaar....
how can i forget to mention abt ur pics....gr8 as always
kudos to u!

Unknown said...

great work arun. you have really good story telling skill. you have maintained excellent continuty in the travelogue.it seems so easy to take pictures at every step of the trek to complete a story. but i know how difficult it is when your legs ar tiring and you are exhausted.

the peak from bedni is probably nilkanth. that's my guess seeing the shape and distance from choukhamba

and the small animal after that pic is probably a mouse hare.

lucky said...

Hi Arun

beautiful description of the place. And wow! what pictures especially the ones you took while descending. Can you suggest a place enroute where one may stay for a complete day.

ciao

Nirlep

Unknown said...

Good photos. I am just back from the same trek.I started it from Wan & after visiting Roopkund, I went to Homkund via Zorawar Gali & Silasamudram & came back through Bhujwani to Sitel. Now there is no snow till Roopkund but 80% of the Zorawar gali was covered with snow both in Roopkund side & in Silasamdram side. But Silasamudram to Homkund was totally free from ice, but the trail was broken in several areas.If somebody planning for bhujwani & Sitel then there is practically mountain goats trail only & have to cross at least five rivers having no bridges on them, including Nandakini. There was a huge glacial patch still existing just before Bhujwani.

rajkumar khosla said...

It is nice to see a well compiled presentaion on rooupkund. I believe you did not get clear weather at Ali Bugyal as you have not posted any view from Ali. Please note that view of the trishul peak is marvelous from there. You even can see Mrigthuni I have posted some photos taken from Ali bygyal on my home page. Please have a look.

I believe this is the beautiful trek in the entire Himalays specialy when you go via bedi and rtn. via Ali-Khopaltop-Didana.

Regards,
rajkumar khosla

Jawa said...

HI !
I too had an oppurtunity to visit Roopkund recently (just a week back). I was astonished to see the mounds of Bones in the otherwise frozen glacier. YOur blog was very nice. Hats of to you! I could see a lot of professionalism in your trek. Bravo!

Shachi Uniyal said...

Awesome!!!!!
What a trip and what an amazing travelogue. Great work Arun. I would love to go to this place but I'm sure it's not possible for first timers to do such a trek. Suggest me some easier one to start with.
keep it up dude :)

Naren said...

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAsum photos man!!!

Unknown said...

Reallyyyyyyyyyyyy Nice Pics...n beautiful place as well.....

deeksha said...

Arun, just one word..AWESOME!! mind blowing pics n' beautifully descripted... really admire your work!!
deeks :)

Luv Sharma said...

Awesome pics and discription!!! Very nice.... Which is the right time to go there as in when snow melts and lake is transparent. Were you able to see skulls in the lake?

guptachi said...

Brother - I was trying to tell some abt roopkund to a friend and thot what better place than yr blog - its always been great to sell the trip through you :)

Arun negi said...

thanks guys :)
@nirlep: i think am quite late in replying but i guess its possible to stay at didana village ( ali bugyal descent route)
@luv: best time to go is after the monsoons are over. during that time lake is transparent. when i went it was frozen..i saw one skull at a distance.
@guptachi : ;)

shabarish said...

Man i dunno who yo are. i jus randomly searched for some images n gotta see yo bolg.

Amazing job. very neatly done.. i have planned for this place this year end. :):) hope i get to see all this. :) cheerz mate...!

Davis said...

I must tell you....they are wonderful pictures......even Winxp is nothing like the one you have presented here.

I can see you love to Travel a Lot..

Is this in India???

Beautiful country

Diana Travel baby

Arun negi said...

Hi Davis,
Thanks for the kind comments :)
Yes this is India. A big chunk of Himalayan range, rather most of it runs through India. So the region is blessed with some of the most picturesque settings.

Vivek Singh said...

hi amit,
good to find such an enthusiastic trekker, even am planning to go there before the onset of winter, sometime when september ends, have researched a lot on roopkund and the trail and the nearby places but it gets nothing better than a first hand account with marvelous pics and a daring spirit. i liked it, actually loved it, it was a recommendation from a friend and i couldn't resists posting a comment. good that u didn't go back without the glance of the beauty that is roopkund and my dear friend am afraid that the rodent u had pictured was neither a lemming nor a chinchilla, coz none of them are found in india, they looked more like a mouse or a gerbil...
and yes even i don't believe in some (if not most) of the data given in wikipedia, i will let you know what my GPS said of roopkund's height...
thanks a ton for sharing the experience...
wishing you more such exotic treks in the future.

Vivek Singh said...

sorry, its arun and not amit, and yes the most amazing pic was the trail leading to kalu vinayak...
amazing, and the pics from ali bugyal and bedni...
thanks again

Arun negi said...

hey vivek thanks for the kind comments :)
would love to read your account of the trek too and not to forget the gps reading. Also you could go further ahead till Junar gali